In the world of leather goods and shoemaking, leather is not just a material, but the very soul of the finished product. The quality, aesthetics and processing of leather are essential to create bags, suitcases, footwear and accessories of value, able to withstand over time and stand out for their design.
Leather makers and shoemakers require a wide variety of skins, each with unique characteristics, depending on the type of item to be made. The most common are:
* Cattle (Veal, Cowhide, Bovine): It is the basis of the sector. The calf offers a fine grain and exceptional softness, ideal for luxury handbags and lightweight footwear. The cowhide is known for its robustness and ability to age with a natural patina, and is perfect for bags, belts and suitcases that require solidity. Adult bovine is used for more structured and resistant products.
* Lamb and Goat skin: They are very thin and light skins, characterized by a unique softness. Lamb (or nappa) is the excellent choice for gloves and clothing, but also for soft and delicate bags. The goat is more durable and has a characteristic grain, perfect for interior lining or small accessories.
* Exotic skins (Crocodile, Python, Ostrich): They are the symbol of extreme luxury. Each has an unmistakable texture and requires a highly specialized processing. They are used for very high-end items such as collectible bags, belts and exclusive details.
The processing of leather must meet very high handicraft standards. The skins must be:
* Tanning: The vegetable tanning process is the most appreciated by many artisans. It uses natural tannins and gives the skin greater stiffness, strength and coloring that evolves over time, acquiring a unique patina. Chromium tanning is faster and gives the skin flexibility and bright colors, making it suitable for a wide range of products.
* Refinishing: Skins can be finished in a variety of ways to achieve the desired effect:
* Full Flower: The skin keeps its natural grain intact, with all its imperfections. It is the choice for products that must convey an idea of authenticity and value.
* Frosted/Smooth: The surface is processed to eliminate imperfections and achieve a uniform texture. It is an ideal base for prints or for the application of finishes.
* Aniline or Pigmented Finish: As for the decor, the aniline enhances the naturalness of the skin, while the pigmented finish offers more uniform colors and greater strength.
* Special Processing: Many leathers undergo additional treatments to achieve unique effects: printing (as for the coconut or saffian effect), drilling, washing for a vintage effect or polishing to achieve a brilliant finish.
The master craftsman has very specific needs that go beyond the simple material. The quality of the skin for him is measured in:
* Hand and Touch: The softness, elasticity and texture of the skin are essential for workability. The skin must "respond" to the hand of the craftsman.
* Uniformity and Absence of Defects: Although natural imperfections are often a sign of value, the craftsman needs skin with few visible defects, to reduce waste and ensure an efficient cut.
* Cut Yield: The shape and size of the skin must optimize the use of the material, especially for micro-productions.
* Reaction to Processing: The skin must respond well to processes such as cutting, sewing, boiling and bending, without splitting or deteriorating.
* Provenance and traceability: The request for leathers from certified tanneries for their quality and sustainability (e.g. Leather Working Group) is constantly increasing.
* Uniqueness: For "ad hoc" productions, the craftsman often researches leathers with unique characteristics that make the final product unrepeatable.
